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FIRST
FLIGHT
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Haut-Bergeron non classified
This wine is located next to d'Yquem (one couldn't dream a smarter neighbour!). The wine is not classified, but has dramatically improved in quality during the last decade.
The colour is surprisingly dark for such a young wine (to drink a four years old Sauternes can almost be considered infanticid!). Nice aromatic
nose with exotic scents of lychee,
floral, not very long. Nice and
fat in mouth, lacks a bit of
acidity. A bit too
ripe. Limited ageing potential in our view. Drink 2005 - 2010.
84/100
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SUDUIRAUT
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1er Grand Cru Classe
Light gold colour - Honey, caramel, almonds, quince. Quite
fat,
fresh butter, tea. A nice and
powerful wine but lacks a bit of "finesse".
87/100
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SECOND
FLIGHT
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GUIRAUD
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1er Grand Cru Classe
Very nice golden appearance,
powerful nose of crystallized fruit and mango. Impressive long
finish, very
rich. A more massive than
elegant type of wine - should do very well with a "foie gras au torchon" course. A perfect example for introducing Sauternes to beginners.
85 / 100
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RAYNE-VIGNEAU
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1er Grand Cru Classe
Light gold colour. Complex and
delicate
nose of citrus fruit (orange zests, apricots, almonds, lychees, roasted bread). This beautiful
Rayne-Vigneau is extremely
delicate and
elegant, not very long but very enjoyable.
Balanced
body,
fresh with enough
acidity to age for a long time.
Botrytis could be a bit more present. I personally enjoyed it very much and most of the participants scored this wine very well too!
90/100
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LA TOUR-BLANCHE
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1er Grand Cru Classe
The French State is the owner of this château. Very nice
nose dominated by banana, honey, and
fresh mint, pretty voluptuous. Very well made wine with a precise mouth, very wide and impressive,
rich (butter - roasted almonds). A first class wine for a very small price - I've seen it reently offered at 29 Swiss Francs / equivalent to17 US$. A real bargain!
91/100
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THIRD
FLIGHT
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NAIRAC
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2eme Grand Cru Classe
Pretty dark gold colour. A lot of
botrytis, crystallized fruits, oranges. Very
fresh, well
balanced
body and a pretty long wine. A very nice bottle to enjoy all through the next decade 2005 - 2015.
90/100
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COUTET
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1er Grand Cru Classe
Pale yellow-greenish colour. Citrus
nose,
fresh cut grass,
buttery, and almond. A bit unpleasant in mouth with a kind of wax polish
taste (Sauvignon?) - dry
finish (when compared to the other Sauternes wines). Some doubts on the winemaking?
82/100
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DOISY-DAENE
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2eme Cru Classe
Paler than
Nairac. The
nose is a bit closed but reveals discreet banana, pears, honey and caramel
aromas. In mouth, this wine is
powerful, but has a lot of finesse too. Long and complex wine, slightly salted (iodized) on the tongue. A very enjoyable and classical
Sauternes wine.
89/100
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TOP
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FOURTH
FLIGHT
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CLIMENS
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1er Grand Cru Classe
Pale gold colour. Weird
nose: almonds, caramel, but slightly moisten too. The wine has an unpleasant
structure, dry, a bit sour and "dirty". Definitely a technical problem with this bottle (cork?). To be revisited.
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LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY
1er Grand Cru Classe
Deep gold. Very open
nose with flavours of citrus, crystallized fruit, quince jam. Lots of fruits - pears, mirabelle plums, remarkable
balance and
freshness, long and
powerful. Ends on a
floral note (roses). A real beauty!
95/100
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RIEUSSEC
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1er Grand Cru Classe
Beautiful gold. Very
fruity nose: pears, apricots, mangoes,
buttery and velvety impressions. Beautifully
balanced structure,
fat and thick substance. Excellent persistence. A wonderful and accomplished wine.
94/100
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EPILOGUE
In conclusion,
LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY was the winner of the day, and
RIEUSSEC
finished extremely close. But
CLIMENS should not be forgotten. I've tasted it in another occasion and trust me, it's a gorgeous wine! Most of the participants noted a clear qualitative difference between the best two wines and the others. There was some wine left in the bottles and many participants returned to
taste again some of the first series wines.
LA TOUR-BLANCHE,
RAYNE-VIGNEAU or
DOISY-DAENE are very good, but clearly a step behind the first two. They just don't quite have the same magic, the same perfect
balance and power. But they are pretty well worth purchasing and excellent values !
NAIRAC too was very much appreciated by many participants. Maybe the most "mature" wine of the tasting at this stage.
COUTET and to a lesser extent,
SUDUIRAUT were deceptions.
GUIRAUD isn't a genius wine but it's finally a very honest and straightforward average Cru.
That’s all for now. I'll come back later with the other wines (older Sauternes) tasted during the meal following this event !
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Cheers, Alain Bringolf
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Further articles on ccvo-bg
Bordeaux wine tasting by topic
Bordeaux wine tasting by Chateau
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TOP
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I've participated to a private tasting of the
1997
vintage
Sauternes with a dozen of friends and winelovers. The idea around this event was to review these very young wines and try to determine which ones are worth investing in. Most of them can still easily be found today in retailer shops. The 1997
vintage is considered to be the best year for
Sauternes wines since the 3 "glorious years" of 1988, 1989 and 1990, certainly the only great year of the nineties for
Sauternes (1995 and 1996 are very good but don't quite match the
richness of the 1997). The ratings mentioned hereafter are the average scores given by the participants.
All wines came from excellent personal cellars and were served at a temperature of 12 degrees Celsius (50 degrees Fahrenheit). In my view, this is the best possible temperature to appreciate a Sauternes wine at its finest. Some people like to drink it cooler, but I think you can't catch all the subtle flavours if the wine is that cold. Of course, the whole session was conducted on a
blind tasting mode to avoid any subjectivity. It should be noted that apart from
RABAUD-PROMIS and SIGALAS-RABAUD, all the 1er Grand Cru classes of Sauternes were represented.
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