SAINT EMILION: THEN
AND NOW
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Tasting notes from top Saint Emilion wines from the celebrated 2000
vintage – and from a variety of older vintages – reveals lasting quality derived from their
terroir .
Text and photos by Panos KAKAVIATOS for ccvo-bg
October 2005
Independent journalist Panos KAKAVIATOS has been writing about fine wine for the international press since 2001
(Decanter
Magazine, Wine
International, Wine
Ireland, Wines
and Vines, France
Today, The
Nantucket Independent and France
On Your Own). He also organises wine tastings in Europe and in the US. We are extremely pleased to have Panos writing for ccvo-bg.org. Welcome on board, Panos!
To visit his website: www.connectionstowine.com
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1998 PAVIE
A somewhat
hot
nose with strong
toast notes indicating a dominance of
oak-derived
aromas preceded a very
powerful and
full-bodied
palate with what seemed to be overly
extracted tannins. A wine that seemed to lack enough fruit to match the
tannin, with a somewhat dry
finish. Perhaps simply too young?
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2000 PAVIE
More
oak than fruit but very pure and
ripe red cherry precedes a full bodied
texture and somewhat jammy
richness.
Finish is intense and long, but I get the feeling of it being a bit too much for my
taste... Though two people liked this wine, including Emile Jung, some found it “hard and
austere” while others “lacking in
acidity".” 2 votes out of 12"
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1990 BEAUSEJOUR BECOT
A
nose that exuded an almost citrus
freshness, even
ripe red apple
intermixed with dark berry fruit and hints of leather and spice.
The
finish was just a bit
warm, suggesting slight
imbalance, with the
alcohol
making itself present. Otherwise, a
refreshing wine with a smooth
texture and a long
finish.
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2000 BEAUSEJOUR BECOT
I sympathized with the verdict during this tasting: the
nose was milk chocolate, plum and some spice and the
palate was ever so smooth,
rich and structured with more plum notes and some blueberry. I thought it had a very nice
finish if a tad heavy. Some participants noted flower
aromas and good underlying
acidity. Most picked this as the top wine of the
blind tasting! "9 votes out of 12"
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1993 ANGELUS
A dark color and a
wine tasting rather young for its 12 years. Very blackberry marmalade on the
nose, with a
rich and ultra-ripe
fruity
texture, though sadly just slightly corked. Still, a very fine effort from a difficult
vintage.
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2000 ANGELUS
Rather dark color with intense dark cherry and
toasted aromas and flavors similar to
Pavie. Full bodied, almost New World but a bit
alcoholic.
Finish was impressive however. I really liked this wine. One participant noted a “very
tannic wine that one can chew. ” 3 votes out of
12"
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1988 CLOS FOURTET
Pure cherry
aromas, pleasingly sour, preceded a very pronounced red cherry flavor in the mouth, though the
texture was not as full as one would have liked, perhaps a sign of the
vintage. A
crisp
and
elegant wine.
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2000 CLOS FOURTET
This was among my top wines of the tasting. Lovely
nose, with
sharp flavors of
bitter chocolate and red cherry also on the
palate. Not as
rich as
Pavie or
Angelus but seemed to show more
balance at this stage. A pleasingly long
finish! "5 votes out of 12"
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1989
BEAUSEJOUR DUFFAU LAGARROSSE
A subtle
nose of plum and some spice, but not very expressive. The mouth was
richer and more giving than the
nose, indeed very full bodied with pleasant dark fruit flavors and chocolate.
Full-bodied and long.
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2000
BEAUSEJOUR DUFFAU LAGARROSSE
Nose more muted,
palate with thicker fruit of plum and cherry. This wine showed greater
extraction than the
Belair and one participant noted a “broad aromatic
palate.” I found greater power in style, though just slightly
hard on the
palate with a relatively short
finish. Still, it was among the most popular wines of the tasting – and did show better the next day. "5 votes out of 12"
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1975 CANON
Mineral-like with hints of licorice and dry fruit on the
nose, preceding a linear and focused
palate, again tasting of
fresh earth and minerals and a smooth
texture. Sneaky persistence and very pleasurable!
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2000 CANON
This wine was unfortunately corked but tasted at the château in April during the en
primeur
season, the 2000 was rather muted and subtle in its pure cherry
aromas and very smooth on the
palate, with a long
finish but far from open at this stage.
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1989 MAGDELEINE
A very
fresh
nose of violets and cinnamon, but also iodé, or iodized, on the
palate, making it a perfect match for the lamproie à la bordelaise. A well-balanced wine, juggling fruit and
floral flavors and
aromas with both
freshness and
weight. A long
finish.
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2000 MAGDELEINE
Hints of blackberry and earth on the
nose, but it was a bit
hard on the
palate. Nice
structure but needed time to open. Though one participant thought is lacked
acidity, I found that some wine leftover the next morning showed much better, with fuller fruit flavors in the mouth and a hint of dark chocolate. No votes.
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1959 FIGEAC
(magnum)
What an impressive almost Medoc-like cigar box
nose! Coming from a
magnum, this wine tasted
relatively young, with a
rich
palate of mint, leather and spice, and a very
Full-bodied
texture, showing its aged Cabernet component very well. A long
finish with a pronounced mentholated accent, and, for me, the wine of the night. Owner Manoncourt later said that at Figeac,
malolactic fermentation was
mastered as early as 1950, so that the chateau was able to limit
volatile
acidity even in the pre-1961 era. He did not need to convince anyone of the aging ability of his wine!
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2000 FIGEAC
A lovely red color with a caramel,
toast and strawberry
nose preceding a
fresh mouth of licorice and
bitter cherry.
body is tight but slowly giving, with more cherry and especially on the
palate, licorice notes. As one participant noted, “the Cab component is rather clear.” 1 vote out of 12"
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1983 BELAIR
Coming from a double
magnum, a spicy
nose at first of clove but
then menthol and white flowers, with a very
refreshing and
fruity
palate with hints of black chocolate and a
round and smooth
texture. Tannins are very well
integrated and later smells of
tobacco. A good match for the
rich
faux filet de boeuf charolais !
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2000 BELAIR
A very big difference in style... I liked the
nose, which I found very complex, mixing gingerbread and
ripe raspberry and blackberry fruits. For some, it seemed rather too
light on its feet on the
palate in comparison to the other wines, but this wine is known to need time before being fully ready. "1 vote out of 12"
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1961 LA GAFFELIERE
Also served with the meat, this wine showed a very dark color for its age – served from just a normal sized bottle (!) – with a somewhat wet earth
nose. Time in the glass opened it up to some leather and truffle notes. The mouth was a complex mix of fig, truffle and some spice, though marked by volatile
acidity on the
finish.
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2000 LA GAFFELIERE
Not so dark a color and indeed another style from the above. More subtle and very nicely structured with, again, cherry notes and again
toast, but not nearly as
rich. An Indian Tonic flavor on the
finish, but a bit
hot on the back end. No votes.
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1990 TROTTEVIEILLE
A pronounced animal and mushroom
nose that was not very agreeable to me at least – though some enjoyed this wine. I preferred the
palate, which had
body and
texture – even a good edge to it – though the finish
was short.
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2000 TROTTEVIEILLE
A coconut
nose (oak?) with some blueberry and blackberry fruit
aromas as well as on the
palate – which is, I wrote, “edgy” with
acidity. Time in glass (about 15 minutes) allowed this wine to fill out a bit leaving an impression of
balance. Good finish, though some found it rather simple! No votes.
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1982 CHEVAL BLANC
Having tasted this for the second time in two years – also at Chateau
La Gaffeliere, in 2003, when it was thoroughly closed – I am convinced that it is (still) a sleeping beauty. Just not ready for drinking yet, in my opinion! A complex
nose of cherry and smooth
tobacco preceded a slightly closed and discrete palate with the same flavors, though the fruit was more pronounced. A cigar box finish but again not overly expressive.
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2000 CHEVAL BLANC
This wine, somewhat like the
Figeac, was closed in comparison to the others, and this is no doubt due to its superior
Cabernet component. Still, I found a minty
freshness in the mouth with some
oak notes that were pleasing – just not as exuberant as many of the other wines. Time in the glass however revealed a silky complexity that made this wine truly lovely, with a very long finish. One participant also exuberantly noted “an espresso
nose… and what an espresso! ” 6 out of 12 votes"
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Panos KAKAVIATOS - for ccvo-bg.org -
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Further articles on ccvo-bg
Bordeaux wine tasting by topic
Bordeaux wine tasting by Chateau
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Saint Emilion: Then and Now
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Comparing top
Saint Emilion classed growths from the much-ballyhooed 2000
vintage with the same wines from older vintages, one could understand why such wines are officially recognized as
premier grand cru classés from the famous
Right Bank Bordeaux appellation.
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Two tastings in June 2005 show that despite the espoused formula today of lower yields,
ripe (some would say ultra-ripe) fruit, almost systematic leaf clearing in the
vineyard, higher albeit much more controlled
tannin extraction in the vat room, and the extensive use of new
oak, a very pleasurable experience of tasting older vintages of these classic non garage wines – when they were never that
rich when young – revealed the high and long lasting quality coming from the established
terroir of these top wines, whose higher relative
acidity of yesteryear gives them a freshness lacking in some of today’s blockbusters known as garage wines…
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Grand dinner and tasting of the Groupement de Premiers Grands Crus Classes de Saint Emilion on June 21 2005 at
Chateau La Gaffelière.
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The Groupement des premiers grands crus of Saint Emilion really knows how to throw a prestige dinner. During Vinexpo this year,
Chateau La Gaffeliere
hosted a feast for journalists featuring classic vintages from the top classed growths of Saint
Emilion. It was the second dinner in a row at Chateau La Gaffeliere – where a similar dinner planned during the 2003 Vinexpo was sadly washed out by a hailstorm that destroyed the elegant outdoor table settings and resulted in one of the most lavish wine and cheese tastings ever… in the underground
cellar
of the chateau! Vintages such as 1961
Figeac, 1964
Belair and 1989
Angelus provided great pleasure indeed. But everything worked according to plan for the black-tie donning journalists and other guests this year, who enjoyed a feast of millefeuille of foie gras with summer truffles, Bordeaux lamprey, faux filet of beef and fine cheeses such as Saint-Nectaire, comté and old gouda before savoring refreshing raspberries with marscarpone and other treats.
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Official
blind tasting of the same wines from the 2000
vintage at a private home in Strasbourg with an international jury of tasters on
June 5.
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Groupement spokeswoman Karine Devilder generously sent me bottles of these wines from the 2000
vintage, sampled by 12 international tasters, including
Emile Jung of the Michelin-rated restaurant "Au
Crocodile", Laurence Faller, the well-known
winemaker at Domain Weinbach in
Alsace, Charles Johnson, judge at the Atlanta International
wine tasting, and Francois Mauss, president of the European Grand Jury – as well as Europe-based members of the
Mark Squires Wine Bulletin
Board, based on Robert Parker’s website.
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The tasting was conducted double blind in that participants did not know that the wines came from the Groupement but did know the theme: high-end Right Bank Bordeaux… At the end of the tasting, before the identity of the bottles was revealed, tasters were asked to raise their hands for each wine that would fall into their “top three” category, with some surprising results. Wines listed in the order of the tasting, with rankings identified at the end of each of my tasting notes. Because I knew the identity of the wines, I did not vote.
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