AN
EVENING DEVOTED TO LYNCH-BAGES - March 2005
The 1855 Classification of the Wines of the Medoc
Region
Lynch Bages - Fith Classified Growths, 5e Grands Crus
Classes, GCC |
|
Lynch Bages 1983
|
Lynch Bages 1986
|
|
Lynch Bages 1989
|
Lynch Bages 1994
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lynch Bages 1995
|
|
Lynch Bages 1996
|
Lynch Bages 1997
|
Lynch Bages 1998
|
Lynch Bages 1999
|
Lynch Bages 2001
|
|
Lynch Bages 2000
|
|
|
|
|
1994
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux
- France
Open 3 hours - not decanted.
Ruby hue. Rather unpleasant
nose, animal and metallic. After being warmed in the glasses, much better flavours of cherry and almond paste fortunately come out.
Rough
and rather
thin
body, characterized by an aqueous and herbaceous
finish. Can bode well with a fat steak, but there is probably nothing much to expect from it. The less exciting wine of the evening. Drink now.
82/100
|
|
1997 LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Open 3 hours - not decanted.
Ruby and slightly orange on the
rim.
Ripe fruits, mint and torrefied
flavours.
Round
body although lacking of depth.
Ripe cherry and
green pepper. Little
hollow on mid
palate. Pleasant to drink for the next 3-4 years.
86/100
|
|
|
|
1983
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Open 3 hours - not decanted.
Evolved hue with orange on the edge. Beautiful complexity of tertiary flavours, wet earth, sandalwood,
cedar, animalized.
Earthy and spicy on the
palate while tannins are not totally
integrated. Good
length with a little disturbing phenolic
taste on the
finish. Seems to have passed its peak. Drink now.
88/100
|
|
1999
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Decanted 3-4 hours.
Dark hue. Muted, slightly animalized
aromas,
green pepper and unfortunately very slightly corked, which fortunately doesn't show too much on the
palate. The tannins are a bit
rough but are however well
balanced by some
ripe fruit (prune).
Mineral
taste on the tongue (graphite) and
light astringency on the
finish. Finally, a much more traditional
Pauillac than I expected. It is OK but currently seems in a ungrateful evolution phase. Desserves to be reviewed again in a few months with a bottle that does not present any potential defect.
|
|
|
|
1998
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Decanted 3-4 hours.
Beautiful opaque crimson.
Nose still overwhelmed by wood, spices and
cedar, with pleasant flavours of cherry and violets in the background. Square, solid
structure with well marked tannins. The fruit is however
ripe and
balance well some slightly drying tannins by the end. Quite
austere at this point but reveals its great potentialities for the next 10 years and more. Will probably soften a bit within the next couple of years. Long term hold.
89/100 today but potentially better at peak.
|
|
1995
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Decanted 3-4 hours.
It's the second time that I
taste Lynch-Bages 1995 within the last 6 months. Alas, this second try did not convince me better in spite of the vintage's excellent reputation! Nice ruby hue. Behind the initial blackcurrant, one finds unpleasant
glycerol and rubber
aromas.
Excellent
ripe fruit but disappointingly
imbalanced. The tannins are too aggressive and the
finish appears very
alcoholic. As such, the wine does not sing at all. Furthermost I have difficulties to spot its potentialities for any future improvement.
84/100
|
|
|
|
2001
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Decanted 3-4 hours.
Crimson hue. Initially reticent
nose but after three hours in the decanter it has expanded into a concentration of
buttery roasted wood,
cedar,
vanillin, and blackberry jam. Excellent
balance of pure fruit and fine tannins on the mid-palate. Slight
bitterness
and a long
finish. An
easy
wine to enjoy "on the fruit". Just a little too "international" in style and probably lacks of personality to enter the propertie's Hall of Fame.
89/100
|
|
1996
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Decanted 4 hours.
Ruby red. Gained depth in decanter nicely. Beautiful
ripe fruit, blackcurrant, prune, truffle and
cedarwood
aromas. Full bodied, incredibly concentrated and well
balanced between
soft tannins and very pure fruits. Very long and dense
finish. An excellent traditionally made
Medoc. Should magnificiently age for 10 - 15 years and more. A very solid score:
92/100
|
|
|
TOP
|
1989
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Decanted 4 hours.
At the opening this Lynch 89 is a true wonder.
Sweet, dense
ripe fruit and complex tertiary flavours - truffle, sandalwood, leather. The wine fills up the
palate. Hugely concentrated, perfectly
balanced and a
finish that went on and on. So I decided to use a decanter for the next four hours in the same way I did for Lynch 1986, 1996 and 2000. What a disastrous mistake!
Four hours later the hue has turned orange. The flavours have completely lost their magic. Admittedly, one finds spicy animal and slightly roasted flavours but unfortunately, wet floor cloth and
acetic smells dramatically break the charm. The
body is wide structured and fills out the mouth completely. But the
finish has become more
astringent. All in all this was a hard but good lesson. In the future I'll be much more cautious on
decanting 15 years old wines for so long!
|
|
1986
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Decanted 4 hours.
Dark garnet. At first it was quite resinous with notes of
tar. I was worried that the wine was cooked, but in fact it was just quite closed and got much better as it warmed: liquorice, mocha and spices. Well
balanced, good concentration and with a gripping
structure that just stuck your front teeth to your lips. The
finish is surprisingly short. One can nevertheless wonder whether the tannins will really one day totally integrate the
structure before the fruit fades away. To my view, I see more and more similarities between 1986 and 1975.
89/100
|
|
2000
LYNCH BAGES - Pauillac
Bordeaux -
France
Decanted 4 hours.
The hue is so opaque I can hardly see the flame of the candle through the bottle as I decant the wine! Four hours later, what a symphony: red fruits, spices, blonde
tobacco, cigar box,
ripe cherries. Such an amazing persistence! The mouth is particularly silky, with an enormous
richness, very concentrated and pure. A mix of Lynch-Bages 1996 and 2001, but with a much higher dimension. It is extremely consistent and chewy. However one wonders how this wine will turn out in 15 years from now. For the moment, it is just pure pleasure and seduction! It is worth noting that a long
decanting made it turn much better, whereas it appeared quite closed and muted at the opening.
95/100
|
|
|
|
In conclusion, the tasting was a fascinating experience of the multiple talents of
Pauillac's most famous
5ème Grand Cru Classe. While rather dull in poorer years,
Lynch-Bages really seems to be sublimated when all the right conditions are met in great vintages. Contrary to other properties, the qualitative fluctuations from one year to another are notably well marked. Also, it appeared to us that the potential of ageing was probably not the highest of the area. This rule however is certainly not immutable because I still have in memory an incredible Lynch-Bages 1949 tasted 4 years ago. However, after 10-15 years, the better vintages seem to reach their peak. Some will probably stay there for a while, but my impression is that one should drink them before their maturing window while their qualities are expressed the best. Lastly, the most recent years (2000 and 2001) seem to mark a change in the propertie's style. Their wines seem more accessible and very flattering, probably less typified Pauillac. Remains to see whether the future vintages will confirm this trend or not. |
|
Alain Bringolf -
for ccvo-bg.org |
|
|
Further articles on ccvo-bg
Bordeaux wine tasting by topic
Bordeaux wine tasting by Chateau
|
TOP
|
|
|
The Lynch-Bages estate (90
hectares) is located just outside the village of Pauillac, overlooking the Gironde estuary. The
vineyard is planted predominantly in Red:
Cabernet
Sauvignon 75%,
Merlot 15%,
Cabernet
Franc 10%. The well-drained soil consists mainly of Garonne gravel. The sub-soil (marl, chalk, and thick clay-sand gravel, or hardpan) forms a solid, but fairly disjointed foundation, enabling the roots of old vines to grow to a depth of 6-8 metres. Lynch-Bages is a 5ème Cru Classe as of the 1855 classification of 61 of the most well known
Medoc Châteaux, instigated by Napoleon III for the 1855
Exposition Universelle of Paris.
|
|
|